Nothing More Comforting: Canada's Heritage Food
by Dorothy Duncan ISBN: 1550024477
Post Your Opinion | | A Review of: Nothing More Comforting, CanadaÆs Heritage Food by Margaret DraguThis slim attractive volume is a collection of thirty-three
"Country Fare" columns from Century Home Magazine written
by Dorothy Duncan. Duncan is a history and food expert with many
roles in the heritage, museum and culinary worlds. She lectures
internationally on Canada's culinary history and is a Fellow of the
Canadian Museums Association. Each of the thirty-three columns
republished here celebrates an individual ingredient or food that
is a regional Canadian specialty. These include rhubarb, potato,
ginger, fiddleheads, salmon, smoked sausage, cranberries, beets and
more.
Dorothy concentrates on Canadian settlers' and First Nations' use
of regional ingredients. She enthusiastically shares her pleasure
in the taste and versatility of regional food and her joy of
discovering local history. There are many excellent quotes and
recipes from heirloom cookbooks, pioneer diaries, and heritage
encyclopaedia like St. Luke's Cook Book, published in Winnipeg,
Manitoba in 1910 to support their fundraising drive for a new church
organ. I tried and loved their Blueberry Cake recipe:
"One pint flour, one cup milk, one-fourth cup butter, one cup
sugar, one cup berries, two teaspoons baking powder: cream sugar,
butter and flour; add fourth of cup of melted butter, fold through
and put in white of one egg; last flour, berries, milk."
Dorothy Duncan thoughtfully fills in the missing method and details
that are rarely included in these older cookbooks. Any pioneer woman
worth her salt peter could put up jam, smoke sausage, and clean
fowl with very little written direction unlike we microwave modern
urban peasants who must be reminded to actually remove the cardboard
packaging before cooking.
I enjoyed reading the medicinal uses of mustard (a cure for hysterical
swooning and gout), cranberries (diuretic, urinary infections),
cabbages (deafness, drunkenness and abscesses) and especially the
onion. To cure earache from The Household Guide or Domestic Cyclopedia
published in 1894:
"Take two or three good sized onions. Peel them and cut in
thin slices. Lay the slices on a cloth and heat until hot. Bind
this to the head, letting it expand beyond the ear at least one
inch all the way around."
This earache cure with the onion poultice recipe makes me thankful
for antibiotics.
Dundurn Press gives each of Duncan's food ingredients the star
treatment with an elegant black and white line drawing by artist
Jennifer Scott. Every one of Scott's food portraits is a little
jewel. Duncan gives each food ingredient a germane quotation from
such diverse sources as A.A. Milne, Shakespeare and the Holy Bible.
Not surprisingly, Duncan's writing style sometimes strays into
heirloom cook book and church bulletin speak when she hopes that
corn may "continue to be an important part of our everyday
life for the next eighty thousand years" and encourages readers
to "inject mushroom magic in your cooking," search for
tomatoes "to savour the succulence of the season" and
simply to "bring back the beet."
Nothing More Comforting is a fun read cover-to-cover but can prove
a useful kitchen companion as a seasonal source of recipes. This
book is a well-chosen gift for any Canadian history buff or home
cook.
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